By the water
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
LuDal offers city dining in the suburbs
 | | Alison and Dalton Velez of LuDal with their children Crystal, left, and Gabriela. Chris Volpe/Register photo |
I walked into LuDal behind two smartly dressed women. As they stepped through the doorway, one stopped and grabbed her friend by the arm. "It looks different!" she exclaimed. "It’s so chic ... this is still LuDal’s, right?"
Yes, it’s still LuDal, the contemporary Italian eatery that’s thrived in an unlikely strip mall in North Haven since 1999. It has the same owners, too — Alison and Dalton Velez, who also own and operate the top-rated Dalton’s in North Branford, and who were on the starting team of the original Quattro’s in Guilford.
I’m mad for restaurants with water views. (You might have guessed this if you’ve read two or more of my columns.) Besides the inner bliss that comes from fixing your gaze on a blue horizon, I love viewing the weather from a front row seat, hearing boats knock against a pier, watching seagulls assemble and breathing air that’s been freshly kissed by the sea.
No matter how fancy the establishment might be, there’s something inherently casual — or, should I say, organic — about a seaside eatery. The best of them make you feel as if you have sand between your toes, even if you’re wearing pointy shoes with three-inch heels.
From Milford to Madison, there are places made to dunk steamers in broth, or slurp littlenecks from their shells, or sip salty margaritas and dine in briny style. Here are a few of my fair-weather favorites, listed in geographical disorder.
The Stone House Restaurant
506 Whitfield St.,
Guilford, (203) 458-3700
www.stonehouserestaurant.com
The setting is gorgeous; an historic stone building on a spit of land, steps away from a sweet marina and a curve of Sound. The Stone House has been around since 1949, first as a fish market and then as a restaurant that hung on for decades.
Instability struck in the ’90s, but since 2000, The Stone House has gotten better and better, and today has evolved into a culinary destination that doesn’t need to lean on the season, the weather or even the view.
Casual visitors can sit in the lounge and sup on Red Curried Duck and Wonton Napoleon, Chicken and Lobster Pot Pie or a dozen other treats; serious diners can choose from a list of such delicacies as Chilean Sea Bass with Root Vegetables and Horseradish Crust and Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb with White Beans Provencal. There’s lunch, too, for those days when the sea, and its bounty, are impossible to resist.
Stowe’s Seafood
347 Beach Street, West Haven
(203) 934-1991
Talk about sand between your toes. Stowe’s Seafood is an old-fashioned clam shack across the street from the West Haven beach — in fact, it’s practically an extension of the beach itself.
The little building, decorated with weathered buoys, is both a fish market and a self-serve restaurant, and it happens to have the best damn lobster rolls this side of Hyannis. Last I checked, these buttery red beauties were a mere $7.50. (Note: it’s been a rough season for lobsters, and the price is allowed to fluctuate, but I promise the rolls are a bargain, even at a few dollars more.)
Stowe’s has lots of other beach bum classics, including fried clams, fish sandwiches and onion rings, served in paper boats and ready to devour at a few tiny tables inside, or at communal picnic tables outside. There are also prepared foods to heat at home, plus fresh fish, shellfish and, of course, lobsters.
Warning: Stowe’s closes early (before 7 p.m. on weekdays; by 4 p.m. Sundays). Get there on time and bring cash — credit cards are taboo.
Scribner’s
31 Village Road, Milford
(203) 878-7019
www.scribnersrestaurant.com
One hallmark of a bona-fide seaside community is random zoning. So it is with that Scribner’s is situated in the middle of a semi-residential section of Milford, steps away from the water. Open for 30-plus years, Scribner’s is the blueprint for New England fish houses, with two sprawling dining rooms — featuring wooden beams and captain’s chairs, natch — and a cozy vintage barroom decorated with nautical doo-dads.
Most of the dishes are familiar, i.e. Sole Almondine, Broiled Scallops and Stuffed Shrimp, but there are plenty of surprises, including an utterly addictive appetizer called Oysters Moscow, featuring fresh-shucked oysters topped with caviar and horseradish sauce. Come for lunch in your clamdiggers and flip-flops, or for dinner in your khakis and topsiders.
Cancun Charlie’s
1 Schooner Lane, Milford
(203) 882-1999
www.cancuncharlies.com
It’s in downtown Milford and has a view of cozy Milford Harbor, but a seafood place it isn’t: rather, Cancun Charlie’s is a festive Mexican restaurant with a big ol’ patio festooned with bright umbrellas and fake palm trees.
Just across the street, boats and ducks float in the water; beyond that is a tennis court, a playground, a basketball court and more. There’s plenty to see, and to eat.
I recommend starting with the Hurricane Charlie, a tropical cocktail for two that’s served flaming; the Tableside Guacamole, made right before your eyes and seasoned to your liking; and the Flautas de Camarones, lovely, cheesy roll-ups jammed with shrimp. Whatever you choose, the place is a celebration unto itself.
The Wharf at the Madison Beach Hotel
94 W. Wharf Road
Madison, CT
(203) 245-0005
Here’s the drill: First, drive past the Madison Beach Hotel and park as close to the water as you can. Then, stroll along the jetties to see what the fisherpeople have caught. Next, walk in the sand and sit on a rock.
Only then can you take a few giant steps backward and find a seat at The Wharf, the restaurant at the Madison Beach Hotel. You’ll be taking a few giant steps backward in time, as well; the Wharf is an old-soul restaurant that’s been good friends with the sea since it was born.
The menu is tried and true, with Jumbo Hot Dogs taking their place alongside Seafood Casseroles and Fisherman’s Platters. If you’ve never been there, take the trip and breathe in the atmosphere, and make absolutely sure that you start your feast with the Wharf’s famous Bucket of Steamers. That’s an order.
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