On a budget By Todd Lyon From the New Haven Register
Hi there. It’s another Friday in June, and once again I’m doing my best to lure you and your loved ones to the Feast of New Haven. Arts & Ideas, Ideat Village, Art on the Edge ... there’s so much to see and do in our city right now. And, as you know, nothing goes better with cultural stuff than food.
What’s that? You say you can’t afford to go out to dinner in New Haven?
I think I can prove you wrong. Even if you have five kids — two in college, three in braces — plus a mortgage, car payments, an indigent brother-in-law, crushing credit-card debt and a pending lawsuit, there are a number of restaurants in downtown New Haven that can serve up memorable meals that suit you, your tribe and your budget.
The following are just a few of our citified eateries that offer great value along with overall deliciousness.
Ivy Noodle
316 Elm St., New Haven,
(203) 562-8800
Combining the flavors of Singapore, Malaysia and other Asian hubs, this "authentic noodle house" offers an enormous selection of appetizers, main courses and meal-sized soups, all served with swift efficiency in a gleaming environment where the walls are clad in polished aluminum.
Everything is a bargain: For appetizers, try Sesame Wonton in Hot Oil ($4.25 for eight pieces) or Steamed Vegetable with Oyster Sauce ($3.75, featuring stalks of highly nutritious choy san). My favorite soup is Curry Beef Stew Noodle ordered with chow fun ($5); although you might also enjoy Soy Sauce Chicken and Wonton Noodle, ordered with wide egg noodles ($5.25); Hock Kian Shrimp Noodle, ordered with rice noodles ($5.25); Curry Chicken Noodle, ordered with udon ($4.75); or Tom Yam Noodle with Shrimp, ordered with rice noodles ($5.25).
These and other soups are prepared before your very eyes in the open kitchen behind the counter, and they’re so generous that you’ll never go hungry — in fact, you might have a hard time getting to the bottom of the bowl.
168 York Street Cafe
168 York St., New Haven,
(203) 789-1915
I’m a big fan of 168 York, New Haven’s oldest, coziest and most inclusive gay establishment. Located across the street from the Yale Rep, sort of, and down a few steps from the sidewalk in classic brownstone fashion, you’ll be welcomed here with open arms — no matter what your lifestyle choices — and treated to delicious home-style cooking created by Chef Eddie Swanson.
The small, pubby dining room offers seven or eight chalkboard specials every night, each with an overriding theme. Mondays are my favorite: that’s when Meatloaf Madness happens. You can find me there, devouring thick slabs of divine meatloaf with mushroom gravy, plus red-skinned mashed potatoes and salad with home-made dressing, all for $3.50.
On Tuesdays, Eddie offers "Italian Flair," a variety of pasta dishes starting at $4.99; Wednesday is when you can get a fine New York strip steak for $9.75, plus a selection of Chef’s Choice dishes; Thursday is the ever-popular Prime Rib night, featuring the 12-ounce Queen Cut ($10.75), or the 16-ounce Bigger Queen Cut ($13.75). On Fridays, there’s fresh fish (average entree: $9), and on Saturdays, the York Burger rules: This, according to Chef Eddie, is a massive hunk of ground sirloin on a bun for $7. Note: Every night there are alternative dishes, and each is made with love and an eye toward value.
Zaroka Bar and Restaurant
148 York St., New Haven,
(203) 776-8644
Arguably the best and definitely the most attractive Indian restaurant in New Haven, Zaroka survived a devastating fire over the winter and has recently reopened in all its glory. A lunch buffet is served daily, and it’s quite a bargain: The price is $7.95 Monday through Saturday and $9.95 on Sunday, and includes a variety of vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes, plus appetizers, breads, rice and more.
At dinner, familiar and unfamiliar dishes abound, including Chicken Tikka Masala (tandoor-cooked chicken simmered in cream and tomato gravy, $12.95); Lamb Pasanda (simmered in an onion, cream and nut gravy, $13.95); Shrimp Malabar (simmered in coconut gravy, $14.95); and Goan Fish Masala (marinated in a tomato and onion gravy with tamarind and coconut, $15.95). Tandoor selections, including Paneer Shaslik ($11.95) and Chicken Tikka ($13.95) are crowd-pleasers, even for those who are slightly afraid of Indian cuisine.
Soul de Cuba
283 Crown St., New Haven,
(203) 498-CUBA (2822)
Traditional Cuban fare is served in a casual, good-looking little eatery where diners happily sit elbow-to-elbow. At dinner, seven appetizers are offered, including Empanadas ($5) of the grilled veggie or chicken variety and Camarones Bailando ($8), jumbo shrimp marinated in a Cubano-Chinois sauce an served over rice in a martini glass.
Three soups grace the menu; don’t miss Chef Robert’s signature Black Bean Chili ($3 cup, $5 bowl). Favorite entrees are Bistec Palomilla, pan-seared sirloin with caramelized onions over white rice, black beans and plantains ($12); Boliche, a Cuban version of pot roast stuffed with Chorizo sausage and simmered in a tomato-based sauce with onions, Spanish olives and potatoes ($13); Pollo Asado con Arroz Amarillo, marinated chicken served Cuban-style with saffron rice and plantains ($11); Camarones con Salsa, breaded shrimp sauteed with a tomato-caper salsa ($14); and Crab Anchala, featuring white lump crab meat cooked in a sweet tomato and garlic sauce, served with pasta ($12).
At lunch time, Cuban sandwiches rule. These are priced from $6-$8, and include the classic Cubano (baked ham, marinated roast pork, Swiss cheese and pickled on pressed Cuban bread, $7), and Bistec Empanizado (marinated and lighted breaded sirloin steak, pan-fried and served on pressed Cuban bread, $8).
Temple Grill
152 Temple St., New Haven,
(203) 773-1111
Immediately across from the Omni New Haven Hotel, this friendly, relaxed tavern specializes in food that aims to please just about everybody — and succeeds. At both lunch and dinner, there are four soups and 10 apps, ranging in price from $4 to $13.
Favorites include the Lobster Bisque ($7.50); the Spinach and Artichoke Dip ($6.50), which is meant to be shared; and Chicken Two Ways ($6). Salads are custom-made, according to customers’ whims, via a Salad Card, which offers all sorts of ingredients that can be checked off with a stubby golf pencil (salad prices start at $4.50).
Sandwiches range from $8.50-$12, each with a choice of toppings, cheeses, dressings and breads. Entrees can be ordered by the full or half-order; thus, the Grilled Meat Loaf is either $7 or $13, and the Sauteed Tenderloin Tips are $9 or $17. A half-dozen other options, including Seafood Pie, Shrimp Tortellini and a Grilled Chicken/Shrimp/Beef combo range in price from $5.50 to $21, and each is served with a starch of the day and mixed baby greens.
Istanbul Cafe
245 Crown St., New Haven,
(203) 787-3881
"Ottoman Empire cuisine" is served in a comfortable room with decorative touches that are quintessentially Turkish. If you’re not familiar with Turkish cookery, now’s the time to try it: For extra fun, request the private room, where you and your clan can rest on cushions, sequestered from the rest of the world by sparkly swathes of fabric.
At lunch, Istanbul Cafe features Turkish pizzas, a specialty of the Black Sea region, which are thin-crusted and baked in a brick oven. Five varieties are available; the house favorite is Sucuklu, with cheese and lamb sausage ($8). Sandwiches ($5-$6.50) are made on pita bread that is cooked to order, and arrive with sides of rice pilaf, spiced bulgur, or fresh greens. Try the Babaganush ($5), or the Izgara Kofte (ground lamb and veggies, $6.50).
At dinner, a large menu begins with salads and appetizers in the $5-$11 range. First-timers might enjoy the Soguk Meze, a platter of vegetarian appetizers meant to be shared ($15 for small, $20 for large). Also recommended is Mucver (zucchini fritters, $6); Ahtapot Salatasi ($11), a chopped salad with char-grilled octopus; and a spicy red lentil soup ($4). Entrees are priced in the $14-$19 range. Standouts include the Kilic Sis, a marinated swordfish kebab ($18); the Vegetarian Mukassa ($15); and my particular favorite, Adana Kebab, with cubes of juicy lamb cooked over a charcoal fire ($15).
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