Variety abounds at Bizalion's Bounty
By Kathryn Boughton
From Passport Magazine
Not so many decades ago, the world was much larger. International travel was not as common and cuisine was distinctly regional.
Americans were introduced to the foods of the world largely through those who came to these shores seeking refuge and a new life in a land of greater opportunity
Today, that has changed. It is possible to eat breakfast in Europe and to have a late lunch in the United States. And the foods enjoyed during sojourns abroad can be found on American tables anytime of day.
Catering to this new sophistication in taste is Bizalion, a charming little shop and restaurant at 684 South Main Street in Great Barrington, Mass., operated by François and Helen Bizalion. Mr. Bizalion, a native of Provence, and his wife, a Dubliner, import fine foods, primarily from France and Ireland, but with representative items from many other European countries as well.
"People are traveling more and trying different foods while they are there," said Mr. Bizalion. "When they come home, they want to find these foods here. People come in and ask about different foods and we try to get the items for people-everything from a coffee filter they liked to a specific kind of food."
Responding to customer requests adds diversity to the store's offerings. "We learn something when people ask us for items," said Mrs. Bizalion. "François knows a lot about cheeses, for instance, but you can't know everything. So, when someone asks for a kind we don't carry, we learn something. They're happy and we get a customer for life."
"We have the kinds of things you can't find in a supermarket," she added.
Indeed, the little épicier has a wide variety of foods that conjure up images of convivial meals shared with friends and family-whether the repast consists of fine coffee and pastries on a Sunday morning or rustic cheeses and meats served on peasant breads and topped off with a bottle of wine in the evening. Perhaps that is because the shop's genesis was found in Mr. Bizalion's native Provence.
Both of the Bizalions were formerly employed in the fashion world: he organized fashion shows and she was an interior designer for corporate offices and stores. The high-pressure jobs were wearing and the couple decided to take a sabbatical and to return to Europe for an extended visit.
"We spent the summer in Italy and Provence and we realized that we were both pretty bored with our jobs," Mr. Bizalion said. "We wanted to be in charge of our own game and we wanted to have fun with it. In France, food is important. The French take pride in what they make-they don't eat as often as Americans, but they go the extra way to find just the right [item]."
Mrs. Bizalion also commented on the French obsession with good food. "It seems as if they are always thinking about food," she said. "You will be sitting at breakfast and they will be planning what they will have for lunch. And before lunch is done, they will have decided what to prepare for supper."
This awareness of good food is not confined to France, however. The Irish, inveterate travelers for centuries, have come home with many ideas about cuisine, as well. "Ireland is having quite an explosion in foods," said Mr. Bizalion. "Because the weather is so interesting there, there are a lot of new foods being grown. There are a lot of new restaurants. They are trying different things."
With this background fueling their ideas, the couple decided to change their lives. Mr. Bizalion said the move from fashion to food was not as unprecedented as it might first appear. "There are trends in food just as there are in fashion-probably more so in the past 10 or 15 years. Part of my job [in the fashion industry] was to travel to Europe and to spot trends, to find new products. And food and fashion are similar in that they are very competitive environments. A store is a very creative thing-you have to be creative in your merchandising, in what you order. You have to keep finding new items. We work very hard at our marketing."
A look around the shop reveals the result of that effort. Billed as a charcuterie and a pâtisserie, the store has a selection of fine meats and confections, as well as imported cheeses, olive oils, breads, pâtés de Campagne, imported pastas, fine coffees and teas, herbs, chocolates, caviar, foie gras and more. "I want it to be like typical épicier," said Mr. Bizalion. "These little shops are very popular in Paris."
Patrons can try out the foods, ordering a sandwich or salad-or both-for lunch and quaffing soft drinks, a variety of coffees, teas or specialty waters. For those who like a glass of wine with lunch, Bizalion also offers a small selection.
"We brought in wine by popular demand," said Mrs. Bizalion. "We have five kinds of wines we have selected and you can have your pâté with a glass of wine-or even a half glass." Wines are priced at $6.50 for a large glass and $4.50 for a half.
The fare at Bizalion gives many patrons food for thought. "We are always giving out our recipes," said Mrs. Bizalion. "We had them printed up. Simple things people can make, like vinaigrette-when it is done right, it is perfect."
"Simplicity is the thing," added her husband. "We sell things that are accessible. Pure things, like olive oil. Pressed olive oil is as raw as it gets. People love knowledge and we can tell them about it, about the acidity of the different kinds, how to use it. We buy it in bulk, which guarantees its freshness, and they can bring their own bottles to fill or buy one of ours. We sell 80 to 100 liters a month, and if someone comes in and we don't have their favorite kind, they're really kind of upset. They get so hooked on it."
Simplicity is also the core of the kind of dining represented at Bizalion. "This food is rustic," said Helen Bizalion. "It's been around forever. Many people don't realize they can buy a whole dinner here. Items like duck confit just fly out the door. That is duck cooked in its own fat. It's already been cooked, so when you get it home, you just crisp it in a pan or in the oven and your dinner is finished. All you need is a salad.
"We have brought in produce, too," she continued. "You put some prosciutto on a plate with some sliced melon and you have a meal. Or take some bread, meat and cheese and a glass of wine. These are really peasant dishes, but it is important to go back and remember these kinds of foods. We spend so much time sitting at the table, and this food is extraordinary and so easy."
The sandwiches made at Bizalion reflect this philosophy and include offerings such as prosciutto de Parma, fresh mozzarella and tomato on panini-grilled focaccia, or jambon, butter and Gruyere cheese on a French baguette. Sandwiches are $6.25 for a full sandwich or $3.95 for a half.
Specialty salads have also been popular. "We go beyond the classic Caesar salad," said Mr. Bizalion. Some of the 11 varieties offered include tabouleh [$4.50]; the Nicoise, consisting of tomato, onion, homemade Provencal vinaigrette, and a hard-boiled egg [$6.50], add slices of prosciutto and melon, [$7.50]; or a charcuterie plate with a mesclun salad [$7.95 for one; $15.95 for two.]
The Bizalions have added some quirky items to their store. Fondue has become "retro-chic," according to Mr. Bizalion, and the couple will rent a fondue package for $35, providing the pot and forks, as well as bread, cheese and a recipe provided taken from François Bizalion's brother, who lives in the Alps.
Similarly, the couple will make up gift baskets with different themes-pasta, cheese, coffee and the like-or will prepare picnic baskets for those off on an outdoor adventure.
While the shop is normally open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Mondays through Saturday and from 9 to 5 on Sunday, they will also book special parties for evening affairs.
"This road changes at night," said Mr. Bizalion, gesturing toward busy Route 7, only a few yards from his front door. "After dark it becomes very quiet and the view is gorgeous."
Those wishing more information or to place an order should call 1-800-249-8303. |
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