Hidden Treasure
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
Portobello may be hard to find but the search is worth it.
The phrase "tucked away" can have various levels of meaning; I’d heard that Portobello, in the Huntington section of Shelton, was a "tucked-away" little restaurant, but I wasn’t quite prepared for the obscurity of its location. On a freezing rain of a night, Hayward and I found ourselves tentatively driving down a narrow driveway at the side of a small office building, thinking, "This can’t be right!" But there it was, in back of the brick structure, looking quite cozy and welcoming.
It was friend and wine goddess Jen Reilley who turned me on to Portobello. The woman knows her restaurants, so I knew it was going to be good, and it was. That night, the three of us feasted on an outstanding Wild Mushroom Soup; a fine Beef Carpaccio; Foie Gras and Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli with fresh pomegranate seeds; Lemon-Thyme Barramundi; and more.
Rather surprising for a former pizza place, don’t you think?
Actually, Portobello still offers pizza, via a "gourmet" section on its menu; traditional pies are sold for take out via a separate entrance.
Owner Angelo Maione, who bought the place with partner Jay Berkowitz in 2004, says the transition from friendly neighborhood pizza joint to high-quality Italian/New American restaurant has been something of a challenge.
Angelo’s restaurant odyssey began when he came to the U.S. in 1971 and took a job at a bakery in Manhattan’s Little Italy. "I’d work from 5:30 in the morning until 2 or 3 in the afternoon," he recalls. "Then I’d go to Brooklyn and work in my friend’s pizzeria until 10 p.m. When you’re 16 or 17, you can do that," he laughs.
He and one of his six siblings soon opened a pizza place in Sheep’s Head Bay; by 1975 he’d moved to Connecticut and went to work at Amy’s in Bridgeport. He eventually bought into the business and stayed until 1993. From there, he opened Emilio’s, one block away, and ran that until 2000; in the meantime he opened Maione’s in Fairfield.
It was in November of 2004 that he bought Portobello in Shelton, a pre-existing pizza place. Due to various zoning complications, he and his partners decided to keep the old name, but with the help of Chef Jim Wishneski, Portobello took on a whole new concept.
Jim, you understand, is an accomplished chef who started young — in fact, much of his early culinary training took place in the U.S. Army, where he was inducted into the All-Army Culinary Arts Team, an exclusive group that competes on an international level. From there he wielded a whisk at such high-end eateries as the Boxing Cat Grill in Greenwich, Sullivan’s Restaurant at the Ed Sullivan Theatre in New York, the exclusive Round Hill Country Club in Greenwich, Jeffrey’s in Milford, Max Downtown in Hartford and, most recently, the Perfect Pear Cafe in Simsbury.
"I’m originally from Monroe," says the chef, "and my friends and family kept asking me to come back to this area." So when Angelo called, Jim jumped on the opportunity to transform a little neighborhood place into something more.
After significant renovations, which included isolating the pizza operation and creating a white-tablecloth dining room, Angelo and Jim went about creating what Jim calls an "upgraded" menu. It’s clear that the two put their talent and experience to good use: The result is a delightful mix of dishes that include such specialties as a salad of grilled Romaine hearts with Gorgonzola and pancetta crisps; grilled salmon over truffle parsnip puree with grilled asparagus and tomato relish; and pan-roasted duck breast with Madeira cherry glaze, roasted root vegetables and Brussels sprouts.
Over the course of the past year, more and more people have been discovering Portobello and making it their own. For good reason: the atmosphere is simple yet comfortable and well-realized, with hand-painted walls and brick details; the service is polished and informed; the menu offers an ideal mix of the simple and the sophisticated; and the wine list is just right, with many desirable options by the bottle or glass.
Surprising, yes. And worth seeking out.
Todd Lyon of New Haven is a freelance writer.
THE ESSENTIALS
•Place: Portobello Mediterranean Grill, 66 Huntington St. (rear), Huntington (Shelton).
•Phone: (203) 929-6222.
•Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Tuesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-9 p.m., Tuesdays-Thursdays; 5-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 4-9 p.m., Sundays.
•Reservations: Appreciated, especially on weekends, but not required.
•Food: Tucked behind a professional building in the Huntington section of Shelton, this one-time pizza place is worth discovering. Actually, it still sells pizza — "gourmet" pies are on the menu and traditional pizzas are available for take-out — but mostly this is a high-quality Italian/New American restaurant with inventive dishes. The dinner menu begins with six appetizers in the $9-$12 range; recommended is the Foie Gras and Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli with fresh pomegranate ($12); Beef Carpaccio ($11) and a special Wild Mushroom Soup, which shouldn’t be missed be if you’re lucky enough to find it on the menu that night. Six salads follow: We sampled an outstanding salad of Grilled Romaine Hearts in a creamy Gorgonzola dressing topped with pancetta crisps ($7, definitely large enough to share among two or more people). Four pasta dishes range from $16-$20; Chef Jim tells me that the most popular of these is the House-made Crab Ravioli with caramelized fennel, fresh tomato and haricots vert in a citrus beurre noisette ($20). Eight entrees are offered, including such gems as Braised Beef Short Ribs over Gorgonzola polenta with balsamic-glazed Cipillini onions and garlicy wilted spinach ($22); Pan-Roasted Duck Breast with Madeira Cherry Glaze, roasted root veggies and Brussels sprouts ($22); and Grilled Swordfish with Basil Mashed Potatoes, spaghetti squash and a red wine garlic jus ($24). Almost all desserts are homemade, including a Banana Creme Brulee ($6) and a Warm Mango Financier with basil gelato ($7). At lunch, a fine variety of salads, sandwiches and pasta dishes are offered, plus gourmet pizzas ($8-$14) with such combos as Baby Clams and Pan-Seared Broccoli Rabe, and Fresh Shrimp and Sauteed Spinach in Garlic & Oil.
•Vegetarianism: Meat-free dishes are plentiful; those who avoid both meat and fish can find lovely salads, special soups and two pasta dishes (a ravioli and a farfalle), plus a number of side dishes such as Truffle Parmesan Fries and Sweet Onion Grass ($4.50 each).
•Drink: A full bar with martinis aplenty is supplemented by a very good wine list with a nice variety of bottles, many from Italy, most in the $24-$40 range, with 13 offered by the glass ($6-$8).
•Wheelchair access: Through the side door, where "to go" orders are placed. Bathrooms are accessible.
•Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Amex.
•Kid-friendliness: Kids love pizza, and can also order simple pasta dishes, plain chicken — whatever their little hearts desire.
•Parking: Behind the restaurant. |
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