Viva Vivo
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
 | | Vivo Seasonal Trattoria chef d’cuisine David Borsell Jr. with executive chef Sean Dutson. Jeff Holt/Register photo |
Dear Readers:
In my tireless efforts to seek out, sample and recommend restaurants to my friends and neighbors (that’s you), I rarely venture outside the confines of New Haven County. When I do dare to stray, I’d better have a damned good reason to lure you beyond our comfortable boundaries.
This week’s good reason is Vivo, the signature restaurant of the newly minted Marriott Hotel in Hartford, located next door to the also-quite-new Convention Center.
Now, before you groan and roll your eyes at the idea of a "hotel restaurant," be aware that the Marriott organization has, for quite a few years, made a nationwide effort to outfit its hotels with "boutique" eateries featuring sexy surroundings and fine food created by actual chefs who are allowed to showcase their talents and philosophies.
Also, be aware that Vivo couldn’t be more convenient: It’s got its own dedicated exit off I-91. So, whether you’re blasting through town on your way to Boston, or stuck in Hartford for a meeting or a show, you can avoid downtown altogether and take advantage of Vivo’s ample hotel parking (validated, natch) and delicious food, available at breakfast, lunch and dinner, served with flair and a sensitivity for your particular schedule.
OK, here’s the back story.
Vivo’s top dog, cookery-wise, is Sean Dutson, a chef I’ve known and admired for many years. I first sampled his inspired cuisine at Octagon, the handsome restaurant attached to the Mystic Marriott (which is actually in Groton, in case you’re taking notes). When Octagon first opened, Sean served as executive chef. Soon, however, he was promoted to director of restaurants. "I was wearing a tie," he recalls, "which is not really me."
Last year, when the Marriott’s Hartford property was being developed, Sean was called upon to audition chefs for the future Vivo. "Mark Fallon, the general manager in Hartford, kept bringing chefs to Mystic to cook for me, so I could check them out," says Sean. "Eventually, Mark said, ‘I’m bringing chefs to this guy — why not use this guy?’"
Sean was eager to take on the challenge. "I was ready to wear the whites again," he says. "It was a great second chance."
Sean Dutson was back where he belonged, defining the cuisine that would shape the flavor of Vivo. He didn’t do it alone: Besides the creative team that designed Vivo’s physical space, he was joined by David Borselle, a 23-year-old chef from New Britain who had worked in Italy, West Hartford and Miami Beach. "We caught him on the way home," grins chef Sean, "and we’re so fortunate to have him. He’s rock-solid, a rare find."
The two chefs were able to craft a menu that integrated local, seasonal ingredients prepared with Mediterranean flair.
On Aug. 24, 2005, Vivo — and the Hartford Marriott — opened their collective doors.
Five months later, I saw the place with my own eyes. Soaring ceilings, worthy of a cathedral, defined the stylish dining room, which was punctuated by open kitchen spaces, where displays of cheeses and roasted meats foreshadowed rustic ovens.
Dinner was delicious. I started with an outstanding appetizer that consisted of a single scallop accessorized with slices of foie gras and apples. Perfect. My compatriots sampled equally enticing starters — listed on the menu as "small plates" — starring fennel sausage, rock shrimp, roasted portobello mushrooms and more. Our "big plates," i.e., entrees, were chosen from a list that offered duck breast, beef tenderloin, Canadian salmon, pasta and veal chops, to name a few. Everybody swooned.
I asked chef Sean if he had special favorites on the menu, and he perked right up: The dry-rubbed rotisserie pork loin with crushed apples and potatoes, drizzled with cider jus, was tops in his hall of fame. He also gave props to the Panama snapper with littleneck clams, saffron broth and romesco sauce. "The sauce is clear, like a bouillabaisse — it’s the ideal example of the clean dishes we do," said the chef.
The concept of clean food is important to chef Sean Dutson. "If I were to open my own place, it would be a lot like this," he says of Vivo. "It all boils down to good quality — fresh food prepared simply."
A fine reason to visit Hartford, I’d say.
THE ESSENTIALS
•Place: Vivo Seasonal Trattoria, 200 Columbus Boulevard (at the Hartford Marriott Hotel), Hartford
•Phone: (860) 760-2333
•Hours: Breakfast buffet: 6:30-11 a.m. Mondays-Fridays, 7 a.m.-noon Saturdays-Sundays. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m., seven days. Dinner, 5-10 p.m., Sundays-Thursdays; 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays.
• Reservations: Recommended.
• Food: A new hotel sports a stylish restaurant that combines the best of Mediterranean cuisine with California sensibilities. Vivo is part of the Hartford Marriott, next door to the Convention Center, which has its own exit off I-91, and is thus supremely convenient. A breakfast buffet is served every day ($14.95 per person); lunch includes salads, pizzas, paninis, pastas and more. Vivo’s best cookery is found on its dinner menu, which features "small plates" (appetizers, priced from $6-$12) and "big plates" ($17-$32).
•Drink: A full bar features boutique cocktails (which can be consumed in the lounge itself, cloistered from the dining room), and an international wine list dominated by bottles from California.
•Wheelchair access: Complete accessibility is offered.
•Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Amex, Discover, Diner’s Club.
•Kid-friendliness: A kindly menu offers lots of kiddy favorites.
•Parking: In the Marriott parking garage; bring your stub for validation.
•Private parties: In a dining room that can accommodate parties of 40-50. Call ahead and ask for Darlene Davis.
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