Noontimes Treats
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
 | | Chef Osvaldo Rameriz of Jeffrey's. Register file photo |
Anybody who has survived another Connecticut winter — as I’m assuming you have — deserves to play hooky right about now. I’m talking about stealing away in the middle of the day and spending an hour or three having lunch in a place where the atmosphere melts the mind and the food massages the senses.
You don’t have to travel far in order to get away. The following restaurants, which I’ve personally selected for your pleasure, are all located in New Haven County. None of them are particularly new or terribly fancy, yet each possesses that rare trinity of ambience, service and cuisine that can help a person shake off the weight of the world, at least for a day.
If you need a permission slip, drop me a line, or just clip this column and consider yourself allowed.
The Stone House
506 Whitfield St., Guilford, (203) 458-3700
www.stonehouserestaurant.com
One of my favorite shoreline escapes, The Stone House occupies an antique building on the edge of a salt marsh, across from a marina, and within strolling distance of a beach. The views are delightful, and so is the food, chosen from a menu that combines sophisticated cuisine and classic New England cookery. When there’s a nip in the air, the wood-burning fireplace in the lounge will keep you warm, at least until spring has truly sprung.
Martin’s, An American Cafe
25 Whitfield St., Guilford, (203) 458-1300
www.martinsguilford.com
The Guilford Green is postcard-perfect, the embodiment of that idealized Connecticut village that one sees in the movies. But the Green is more than a pretty picture: The stores that surround it offer some seriously good shopping, and there are plenty of places to eat. My personal favorite is Martin’s, a friendly yet stylish restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Since opening last year, it has become a favorite destination for townies and tourists alike; in the warm weather, Martin’s back-yard patio is an oasis of art and natural beauty. Go. Indulge. Enjoy.
Tenderloin Fish and Steakhouse
2 E. Main St., Branford, (203) 481-1414
A few blocks away from the Branford Green — another lovely New England landmark — is Tenderloin, a small eatery where big flavors live. It’s almost impossible to spend less than two hours there (which isn’t to say the service is slow — in fact, it’s top notch). It’s just that, once seated at a white-napped table in the intimate dining room, the meal unfolds like an opera, and it’s all too good to rush. Though steak is a specialty, please know that Tenderloin is Italian in its soul, culinary arias and all. Also, the wine list is superb. Take your time.
Jeffrey’s
501 New Haven Ave., Milford, (203) 878-1910
If you’ve been keeping up with this column, you’ll know that Jeffrey’s has undergone a transformation, yet continues to offer gorgeous food in an unlikely neighborhood. One of the major changes is that Jeffrey’s is not just for fancy dinners anymore: There’s also casual fare on the menu. At lunch, that means salads, quiches, sandwiches and wraps, as well as high-style entrees in scaled-down portions. The dining room is still divine, and still has that view of the Indian River, and the patio will soon be bursting with flowers and outdoor dining, clear through October.
Cafe Atlantique
33 River St., Milford, (203) 882-1602
www.cafeatlantique.us
A counter-service bistro with a chalkboard menu, daily wines, coffee-house coffees, Internet access and an old piano in the corner, Cafe Atlantique will definitely appeal to your inner bohemian. There’s nothing like sitting at a small table by the window, digging into a custom-made crepe, and hearing the rumble and whistle of trains passing through the Milford station, just across the street. From early in the morning until late at night (10 p.m. weekdays, midnight weekends), Atlantique hums with fun and fresh food that combines California-style health with European-style yum.
Ristorante Luce
2987 Whitney Ave., Hamden, (203) 407-8000
www.ristoranteluce.net
The former Rafaello’s has been modernized, expanded, warmed up. The same deeply felt Italian dishes and award-winning wines are now served in comfortable, copper-toned surroundings. I suggest apps at the long, handsome bar ... entrees at a table in the sunken dining room ... dessert and a glass of port on a sofa in the cushy lounge. If the weather is fine, take it all outside to the wrap-around patio, and toast to another winter, survived.
Todd Lyon of New Haven is a freelance writer. |
|
|
|
