Made to Order
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
 | | Co-owners Suzette and Arturo Franco-Camancho at their new College Street restaurant Bespoke. Arnold Gold/Register photo |
There are certain qualities to Chef Arturo Franco-Camacho’s cookery that knock me out. First, there’s a specificity of flavors: Nothing on Chef Franco’s menus tastes like each other, or like anything else you can think of, either.
Second, there’s a layering to his dishes: Aromas and tastes unfold and unfold and unfold, telling a story as they go.
Such has always been the case at Roomba, the Chapel Street restaurant that he and his wife/partner, Suzette, have kept swinging for seven years.
Now, the rule grandly applies to their newest venture that opened in November on College Street.
There are certain qualities to Chef Arturo Franco-Camacho’s cookery that knock me out. First, there’s a specificity of flavors: Nothing on Chef Franco’s menus tastes like each other, or like anything else you can think of, either. Second, there’s a layering to his dishes: Aromas and tastes unfold and unfold and unfold, telling a story as they go.
Such has always been the case at Roomba, the Chapel Street restaurant that he and his wife/partner, Suzette, have kept swinging for seven years.
Now, the rule grandly applies to their newest venture that opened in November on College Street.
The opening was a heavily anticipated event for townies and tourists alike; all of us had been waiting for three years for the Italianate building, snug up against the Owl Shop, to finally lose its plywood face and expose itself to the world.
We had been told that the three-story restaurant was going to be called Dish, yet just what exactly the style would be was kept a secret.
When the place finally opened, we learned — without benefit of signage of any kind — that the new restaurant is called Bespoke, as in made-to-order, the way fine tailoring and cabinetry is.
"That was the best day, when the boarding came down," recalls Suzette, who lives on the upper floors of the building with Franco and their children. "It was like being released from prison. It was weird to suddenly have so much light, and to see people walking around outside."
The menu features what Suzette and Franco call "modern American with global influences." It’s far more complex than that, however. In fact, Bespoke has a fascinating selection of 10 appetizers and 10 entrees that seem to be made to appeal to world travelers who yearn for flavors from France, Morocco, Italy, the Pacific Rim, pulled together with herbs and spices from 1,000 ports.
A parfait of cured salmon and fresh tuna tartare with capers, caviar and creme fraiche; a pomegranate rack of lamb with eggplant-potato tart; a Nicoise-style striped bass with saffron potatoes and shellfish broth; beef tenderloin with celery root truffle gratin — these were some of the dishes that wowed our senses one recent night.
We had ordered off the a-la-carte menu, but it wasn’t our only option; Bespoke also has a prix-fixe, four-course menu, with or without wine pairings.
There were a number of reasons why Franco and Suzette decided to go with a prix-fixe option. "Originally when we were going to do Dish, we were thinking of the small-plates concept, where you could choose a little of everything," explains Franco. "But as we evolved, we were thinking about how often, at Roomba, people come in and just ask for our best dishes — it puts me in an awkward position."
This way, Franco can present the best, most beautiful ingredients in a suite of dishes that compliment each other. This prix-fixe option is designed to change as often as the chef changes his mind; at present, it features house-cured gravlax; pan-seared Maryland crab cake and Mediterranean salad; chorizo-encrusted Chatham cod with Savoy cabbage, white cocoa beans and black truffle essence; a chef’s dessert sampler; and a cheese plate ($59 without wine pairings; $75 with wine tastes; $90 with full pours).
The cheese plate option is a favorite of mine. Bespoke has an enticing collection, which can be ordered in two sizes (choice of three, $12, choice of five, $15), and which seems the ideal little nibble at the bar with a glass of wine on a winter’s night.
Which brings me to the bar, and the rest of Bespoke’s remarkable architecture. The facade is a window to the world, of sorts, a two-story panel of glass that opens on a long slate bar flanked by ice-blue velvet stools and skinny candles set into white-washed brick walls. Beyond that is the modern-yet-cozy dining room with gray felt banquettes; just past is private wine room that seats as many as 12 revelers at a long table.
Upstairs, on the mezzanine level, is a larger, cooler room with a stripe of mirrors all around and a white onyx fireplace backlit by rather bright lights, giving it an amber glow.
Downstairs — on a subterranean level — is a lounge which is not quite open yet, but which will also feature a fireplace and a more casual menu with lower price points.
It’s all very dramatic, from the furnishings to the nearly communal bathrooms to the cocktail menu, which shuns common bottles in favor of Chopin Vodka, Junipero Gin and the like.
Says Suzette, "After seven years of Latin food, I wouldn’t wait to have some of Franco’s other cooking again." I think all of New Haven will soon discover that Bespoke has been worth the wait.
Todd Lyon of New Haven is a freelance writer. She can be reached at toddlyon@earthlink.net.
THE ESSENTIALS
- Place: Bespoke, 266 College St., New Haven.
- Phone: (203) 562-4644.
- Web: www.bespokenewhaven.com.
- Hours: Dinner — 5-9:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays; 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; 5-8:30 p.m. Sundays. Closed Mondays
- Note: Stay tuned for the opening of Bespoke’s lower level lounge.
- Reservations: Recommended.
- Vegetarianism: A special vegetarian dish is offered nightly.
- Drink: Inventive cocktails are made with boutique boozes (try the Pimms No. 1, a totally refreshing starter); an interesting yet utterly manageable wine list has bottles in the $26-$106 range, with many priced around $40, and with 18 wines by the glass priced from $7-$14. A lovely selection of teas are available for after-dinner sipping.
- Wheelchair access: Through the front entrance, on the main floor (Suzette says her handicap-access bathroom is the prettiest she’s ever seen.)
- Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, Amex.
- Parking: On the street at meters, free after 7 p.m., or in any of a number of pay lots.
- Private parties: In the wine room for parties of up to 12, or by special arrangement. |
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