Worth the Wait
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
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| Prep Chef Francisco Delgado prepares prosciutto on a vintage Italian 1958 hand-cranked slicer at Barcelona. |
Oh, what a tease it’s been: We waited so long for Barcelona to open its dramatic doors on the long-dormant corner of Temple and Crown streets in downtown New Haven.
And now that the place is up and running, I can’t get enough of it. Neither, it seems, can anyone else within a 50-mile radius.
No wonder: Barcelona is a Spanish wine and tapas bar that had its beginnings a number of years ago in South Norwalk. An instant hit, it’s grown constantly since then, adding locations in Stratford, Fairfield and West Hartford.
The New Haven location is sexy, handsome, utterly desirable. Wood, stone, glass and fire define the space, which manages to be at once modern and warm. There’s a long marble bar, a generous lounge centered on a fire pit — where friends can pull up a chair and share some sangria — a private Chef’s Table made of natural black walnut, a rear dining room watched over by a photo-mural of a matador and furious bull, and a front dining room featuring a temperature-controlled "wine wall" overlooking Crown Street.
That wine selection is remarkable. And the kitchen is even more so.
For that, we can thank Executive Chef Pedro Garzon, who was born in Yonkers but whose family is from Andujar, in south-central Spain. There, his 150-year-old ancestral homestead is planted with 10,000 olive trees, and will soon be home to a vineyard, as well.
"My father was a surgeon, and my mother was a nurse," explains Chef Pedro. "I spent a lot of time at home with my Spanish grandmother, and I started cooking when I was a little kid."
Pedro followed his passion to the French Culinary Institute in New York City, eventually interning at the two-star Michelin-rated Hotel de France in Auch. Various prestigious stints followed, including positions at the River Cafe, the Hudson River Club, the Beacon, and The Georgian Room at the Four Seasons Hotel in Seattle, and Chef Kerry Sear’s Cascadia Restaurant.
Two years ago he became involved with the Barcelona Restaurant Group. Along with General Manager Matt Davies, he opened Barcelona’s West Hartford location, then came to New Haven and watched over its seemingly endless evolution from industrial shell to bustling eatery.
The menus at Barcelona are fascinatings, and ever-changing. First, there is the gorgeous selection of tapas, "small dishes" ranging in price from $3.50 to $11.50, including such enticing dishes as Baby Artichokes with Serrano Ham, Garlic and Sherry; Duck Confit with Wild Mushrooms and Port Wine Reduction; Braised Oxtail with Sherry and Roasted Peppers; Chorizo with Sweet and Sour Figs; and many more. These are offered a la carte, or as Barcelona Samplers for two, three or more (available Sundays through Thursdays).
Also on the menu are Charcuteria selections — plates of fabulous cheeses and cured meats — as well as salads and dishes "For the Table," that is, shared dishes such as Argentine Mixed Grill for Two ($49), and Paella for two to six people ($24.50 per person).
Specials and entrees at Barcelona are constantly changing, and this is where Chef Pedro’s imagination and his fluency with fresh ingredients really shines. On any given night you might be offered Pan-Seared Ostrich Steak with Red Wine Onions and Brandy Reduction; Avocado Salad with Hearts of Palm; Pepper-Rubbed Filet Mignon with Mashed Potatoes, Brandy Reduction, Garlic Spinach and Crispy Onions; Grilled Giant Prawns with Organic Greens, Oranges and Black Olives; or Braised Wild Boar with Porcini Sofritto and Cavatelli Pasta.
This just touches the surface of Barcelona’s appeal. Besides seductive food, the service and ambience are wonderful. General Manager Matt Davies, who is relatively new to New Haven, says that every night at Barcelona is like "having a private party in his home," and compares the restaurant to "a living room."
Speaking of which, perhaps the best way to experience Barcelona at its best is to make a reservation at its Chef’s Table. There, Chef Pedro will create an original meal depending on your personal preferences, and Matt will pair wines for you. I was lucky enough to have a private feast, and let me tell you, it was a knock-out: Each dish was more exciting than the next (Brussels Sprouts a la Plancha, a salad of Oranges, Shaved Fennel, Kalamata Olives and Red Onions, Lamb Chops with Romesco Sauce, to name a few) and the wine was unforgettable.
I’ll say it again: I can’t get enough of Barcelona, and I am thrilled to have it here in town. Get there as soon as you can, my friends, and let yourself be carried away.
Todd Lyon of New Haven is a freelance writer. She can be reached at toddlyon@earthlink.net. |
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