All the News that's fit to EAT
By Todd Lyon
From the New Haven Register
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| Prasad Chirnomula, the executive chef of Thali. (Register File) |
People! There is so much going on.
This monthly feature is designed to keep you up to date on New Haven County’s ever-changing restaurant scene. From Waterbury to Woodbridge, from Madison to Milford, there’s a constant flow of juicy news about places that open, places that close, menus that evolve, chefs that come and go.
I swear, I could write a column every day and never lack for sizzling items, hot off the grill. Most of these are provided by my trusty spies (you know who you are, and you know you’re loved. Deeply. By me.).
Please enjoy the following munchy nuggets, and remember that you’re cordially invited to join my army of informants who care about the culture of food that is shaping our city and its surroundings.
Which is to say, e-mail me.
TUSCANO RISTORANTE, LAUNCHED
Eleven years ago, Rob Bartolomeo brought Gotham Citi to the Elm City.
As nightclubs go, it has been, and continues to be, a shining example of How To Do It Right. Rob, a former banquet manager who long ago worked at Villa Capri, among other establishments, grew a subterranean space on Crown Street — best remembered as a German restaurant, and later, a punk club — into a three-story hotspot welcoming clubbers of every persuasion, from gay to goth.
With close to 18,000 square feet of space, loosely divided into a bar, a dance hall and an after-hours club, Rob made Gotham Citi a destination, drawing night crawlers from New England, New York and beyond.
Change has been the only constant. "As I matured, the club matured with me," says Rob.
Over time, various areas were made upscale and luxurious; a street-level space on Crown became a lounge and a karaoke bar.
On April 17, after many months of work, that very space became Tuscano Ristorante, a 50-plus seat restaurant with a traditional Italian kitchen headed up by Chet Perrotti, formerly of Perrotti’s on Wooster Street.
"I fell in love with his food," says Rob of the chef. "These were the sauces, these were the meals that my mom and my grandparents made."
The place looks great, with hushed lighting, marble-topped tables and high-backed upholstered chairs; it feels miles away from the club, which is just beyond a sienna-colored wall.
I sampled only a few dishes from Chef Perrotti’s menu, but I liked what I tasted, and I plan to go back for his signature dish of Gamberi Venetia — shrimp, scallops, blood oranges, risotto and an SV Vodka cream sauce.
"I had thought that my club customers would automatically come to the restaurant, but I was mistaken," says Rob. "I have to earn my reputation all over again. They don’t know I can run a restaurant, and when they do come here, they’re amazed."
Tuscano Ristorante, 39 Church St., New Haven, (203) 498-2484, titancorp@aol.com.
KUDETA, OUTED
There isn’t a bad seat in the house. That’s what’s said of Kudeta, the sexy trans-Asian restaurant on the corner of Crown and Temple streets. This summer, there will be even more seats to love — 40, to be exact — thanks to an outdoor expansion. According to general manager Steve Garrett, Kudeta is ready to unveil a luxurious patio, semi-enclosed by a metal frame draped in mylar, featuring a nautical theme and offering a late-night menu starring shellfish — local clams, rock shrimp, oysters from Sweet Neck Farms in Martha’s Vineyard.
"Days and evenings we’ll have the regular menu outside," explains Steve. "Later — weekdays til midnight, weekends til 1 a.m. — we’ll have something special."
It’s possible that Kudeta’s pretty patio is already open, even as you read this. Get there, find out, try one of those silken oysters from the
Vineyard and remember why you’re glad to be alive.
Kudeta, 27 Temple St., New Haven, (203) 562-8844, www.kudetanewhaven.com.
NIKKITA
I’m still waiting to hear from Nicolino Valletta, the owner of Nikkita on Crown Street.
But I have it on fairly good authority that he has taken over the space once occupied by Amalfi Grille, and plans to turn it into a place called Marius V-Lounge.
Sounds interesting.
For now, you can expand your Nikkita experience by sitting under umbrellas in what used to be Amalfi’s front yard on Temple Street, and gaze into the future.
Nikkita, 200 Crown Street, New Haven, (203) 787-0227.
FORBIDDEN CITY REACHES OUT
Forbidden City, the beautiful eatery on Middletown’s Main Street, taught me the true meaning of Chinese cuisine, and earned a place on my "best-of" list for 2006. Now, the high-style Asian bistro is introducing a "Streets of Shanghai" menu, featuring 30 dishes traditionally served by vendors in that far-away place.
The new menu will be unveiled at a special Buffet Brunch June 3, from noon to 3 p.m. Cost for the event is $15 per person, not including tax and gratuity, and all proceeds benefit the Amazing Grace Food Pantry and Friends of the River, charities that serve needy people and neglected places in Middletown.
After the event, "Streets of Shanghai" specials will be available until June 30th , with dishes priced from $5-$8.
Forbidden City Bistro, 335 Main St., Middletown (203) 343-8288 www.forbiddencitybistro.com.
JOHN & JANELLE
Did you catch John Columbus and Janelle Finch on "You Should Live Here," a show on HGTV that makes a big deal about excellent cities?
John and Janelle, who have written extensively about New Haven pizza, were filmed for nearly 12 hours as they visited Pepe’s, Sally’s and Modern.
"It was weird being on the other side of the camera," says John, who is a professional photographer. "I wish I had said the words, ‘pizza mecca.’"
John and Janelle also wish that the aired piece had been longer. "The subject is infinitely debatable," says John. "Everybody has their own opinion — Wooster Street might as well be an exact line of demarcation between the Yankees and the Red Sox, as well as Pepe’s and Sally’s."
Janelle’s satisfaction came from the crew, who hailed from Philadelphia and New York City: They loved New Haven pizza so much that they swore they’d never eat pizza in their home towns again.
"You Should Live Here" will be airing randomly throughout the summer. Set your TiVo, and enjoy.
RESTAURANT TOURS
The International Festival of Arts and Ideas once again invites visitors — as well as local folks who are curious about places in their own back yards — to participate in a series of restaurant tours in New Haven. There’s a bunch of options, taking place June 9, 12, 16 and 23.
Assuming that you suffer from short-term memory loss, as I do, I’ll focus on the June 9 tours.
These take place next Saturday at 1:30 in the afternoon, and you can choose from Tour A, which includes L’Orcio, Carmen Anthony Steakhouse, and Marjolaine bakery, all on State Street; or Tour B, featuring Skappo Italian Wine Bar, Nini’s Bistro, and Thali Regional Cuisine of India, all located in the Ninth Square neighborhood on (or near) Orange Street.
Tickets are $35, and can be purchased at the Shubert Theater or at www.artidea.org. Meet outside the first restaurant of your tour at 1:15, and prepare to be fed.
OTHER ARTS, OTHER IDEAS
Ideat Village, the local, alternative arts festival that rubs up against Arts and Ideas, suggests Dinner and a Show on Thursday, June 14. That evening a host of performers, including torch singers, circus acts, Germanic rockers, dance troupes and new indy minstrels will lively up Temple Plaza with VAUDEvillage, a free concert/variety show from 7-10 p.m.
Though everyone is welcome to sprawl on the grass and enjoy the madness, organizer Nancy Shea notes that both Chow and Bottega Lounge have outdoor patios with perfect views. There, fans can order fine wines and fragrant plates of this and that, and pretend to be civilized while vaudeville is sliced, diced and served up as something entirely new.
WILKINSON’S FAMILY RESTAURANT
I haven’t been to Wilkinson’s Family Restaurant in Madison. But I’ve seen its promo piece. You should see it, too. Link on to www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVSRy4-86CA&mode=related&search
BBQ closing
I was told it was the oldest restaurant in Milford, that is, the longest continuously operating eatery in town.
Famous for its lobster and steak specials, as well as its miniscule wooden booths and its pay phone in the bar room, I once called it "Snuffy Smith’s Restaurant."
It sort of looked like a log cabin... but not. Then it was painted in a seemly color. Bright Gray, I think. Or maybe Old Bruise Blue.
I drove by the place a number of times in the last few months, and it had a hollow feeling, as well as a sign that said: "Coming soon. Il Forno."
Snuffy, we hardly knew ye.
Todd Lyon of New Haven is a freelance writer. She can be reached at toddlyon@earthlink.net. |
